Now that we got the counters done, we need to do a little more cabinetwork. First up, cutting the bench seat tops. Using the templates we used for the cushions, we cut out the bench tops and got them to fit. Then, using a scrap of pine as a straight edge, we used the circular saw and plunge cuts to cut out the lids in each of the benches. Then we drilled a 1-1/4″ hole to act as a handle.
The pictures below show the lids down and open. We aren’t going to hinge them. Instead, they will sit on 2×2 shoulders inside the hole. They aren’t going anywhere once the cushions are on top of them and besides, that’s what Scamp did initially with the fiberglass cabinets.
Our next step — cut the holes for the stove and sink. We drilled a hole in the middle of the cutout for the stove and then used the router with the trim bit to take out the excess laminate. With that gone, it was time to install the stovetop! It took a little bit of finagling the gas line through the plastic grommet in the back corner of the stove, but once it was through, we were easily able to get the nut and the flare on the copper line and viola! Our LP gas hookup was complete!
We repeated the process for the sink hole…a hole in the center, then the router and trim bit. Then we drilled the four holes for the bolts that hold the sink down and did a test fit on the sink.
A couple of holes later and we have a faucet! We attached the water line to the hot side of the faucet and put a cap on the cold side to prevent water from going up into the faucet and back out the other valve into the cupboard. Maybe, someday, we’ll get a hot water heater and we can install it…but for now, we’ll just cap off one side.
So then it’s under the cabinet to take care of the plumbing. While we had the sink out, we took care of the wiring for the “license plate light” under the cabinet. We hooked up a small 12v power supply to test the light to make sure it worked the way we wanted it to. As you can see, that little LED light throws a lot of light. Perfect! The switch to turn it on is just to the right of the light itself.
Before we put the sink in permanently, we connected the city water line. We put a T out of the city inlet. Out of that we attached a backflow preventer to stop the incoming city water from backfilling the water tank. From there, we put a barb connector on to tie the water line in to the system.
The funny thing is….the picture shows the incorrect attachment of the backflow valve. In this picture, the back flow preventer would stop the water from flowing back from the water filter/faucet! We’ll have to redo this connection so that the clear hose is the one that actually goes into the back flow preventer instead of the braided line that leads to the water filter! It’ll require a piece or two of plumbing from the hardware store, but we’ll get it. 🙂 Glad we caught it now rather than after we buttoned it all up!
The next part was to install the pump and run the water line from the pump to the backflow connector under the sink. We also had to attach the power lines and run them up under the cabinet as well. You can see the pump installed here along with the strainer that will go to the water tank. The blue capped end will require a piece (a female 1/2″ connector to a barb) to connect it to the line.
That task done, it was time to revisit the cabinets.
We adjusted the frame of this cabinet so we could put a bottom inside the cupboard and one on the outside to which we can attach the lighting. We can then run the wiring inside the two so they won’t be exposed. In the photo below, you can see the face frame for the rear cupboard.
Now attaching that one to the rear of the Mansion was a tricky piece we weren’t really looking forward to handling. But we had to come up with a solution. Obviously, a series of tabs fiberglassed to the shell was the way to go….but we couldn’t use a standard 2×2 block because the angles were all wrong. But a little action with the table saw and we had a tab block we could use. So we made several smaller blocks to attach to the roof and the back wall.
We located the positions of the tabs, accounting for the thickness of the cabinet plus 1/4″ for the inside liner of the cabinet. Using our trusty contractor’s grade adhesive, we secured them to the wall, using a bit of tape to hold them in place until the adhesive set up.
And that’s where we’re going to have to leave things for a few days…real life is inserting itself into our fun…again. But when we get back to it, we’ll be able to fiberglass in the tabs and then install the cabinets (the fiberglass won’t take long to cure!) We’ll repeat the process for the front cabinets as well. Now we won’t attach the cabinets right away. We’ll make sure they all fit, pull them out, sand and paint them, and while they dry, we’ll install the Reflectix and the headliner fabric. Then the cabinets go in. We are so close…so very close. 🙂